Ms. Chung, based in New York and known as Doo-Ri, gave a strong show based on her ability to drape jersey, a skill learned from working with the late Geoffrey Beene. Mixing tailoring and fluidity in one outfit, the designer brought a fresh vibe to the masculine/feminine look.

"When I am in Korea, I feel very American, and in America, I feel Korean," said the designer. "It is the duality of being born in America and growing up with those ideals — but with Korean cultural references."

The biography of Prabal Gurung reads like a global fashion tour. Born in Singapore, raised in Katmandu, Nepal, apprenticed to Manish Arora in New Delhi and then an intern in London, he began his solo career in New York, where he ultimately became the design director of Bill Blass. Something of that bold American style showed up in Mr. Gurung's use of dashing black and red.